With its sandy beaches and laidback vibe, Cayucos has been dubbed "California's last great beach town." (Getty Images)
There’s no doubt that last winter was a monster — or more like a series of them — and some of California’s roadways are still digging out. But that should not dissuade you from any California coastal road trip plans this summer.
The Big Sur coastline is one of the planet’s most spectacular, but while a section of Highway One — near Limekiln State Park — remains off limits, a bit of creative re-routing presents an often overlooked region to explore. Approaching Big Sur from the south brings plenty of wildlife sightings, great food stops and plenty of fun to be had.
The following itinerary offers a leisurely loop that is perfectly do-able in a weekend with something for every passenger in tow.
Pass through Paso
Whether you’re headed for San Simeon or Cambria, the Big Sur road closure makes traversing 101 basically unavoidable. That’s not a bad thing, though, when the first available cutover to the coast involves Paso Robles. As you head toward the sea on Highway 46, you’ll find a lovely hill region dotted with vineyards, wildflowers and a scenic incline with ocean views beyond.
A detour to Niner Wine Estates’ tasting room will remind you that this too is wine country. Located about three miles west of the 101 turnoff in Paso’s Willow Creek district, this family-owned estate winery has a deep sustainability ethos echoed by their 100 percent solar-powered property as well as in the garden-to-table tasting experience on the estate. Chef Jacob Burrel uses seasonal produce from the onsite garden run by his wife, Fiona Bond, to craft the menu — and you can book lunch when you reserve your wine tasting.
Details: Niner Wine Estates is open from 10 am. to 5 p.m. daily and 2400 Highway 46. Wine tastings are $40 per person; make reservations at www.ninerwine.com.
Explore Cambria
Highway 46 ends exactly where you want your trip to begin in the small artsy town of Cambria. A quaint old town section has restaurants and antique stores and galleries galore. But to get in on the quintessential summertime seashore experience, set your sights on Moonstone Beach. Enjoy the tide pools, go beachcombing and hunt for agates and moonstones — or stroll along the wooden boardwalks to soak it all in.
There are many hotel options along Moonstone Beach Drive, but the White Water, which opened in 2020, hits all the marks for comfort, design, amenities and location. Every morning, a picnic basket of fruit, baked goods, coffee and mimosa makings is delivered to your door, and in the evening, you can watch the sunset in the cushy midcentury modern lobby with a cocktail in hand.
From your home base at White Water, head north 10 miles to San Simeon to see the largest population of mainland elephant seals, who come here multiple times per year to mate, molt and laze around in the sunshine. You can book a tour at Hearst Castle, William Randolph Heart’s legendary, over-the-top estate, or stop in at the visitor center for tickets to watch the documentary, “Hearst Castle: Building the Dream,” on the 5-story screen onsite.
Back at the inn, borrow one of the hotel’s Linus bikes and ride into town for dinner at Robin’s. A community institution for nearly 40 years, Robin’s is known for its eclectic, global menu. Or head to the new Brydge restaurant housed in the Victorian-era house where Robin’s got its start in 1985. Chef — and Oliveto alum — Elaine Rivera-Glenn opened Brydge this spring, and serves Spanish-influenced dishes such as tiny, spicy meatballs and salt cod brandade, as well as roast chicken, eggplant cassoulet and Wagyu ribeye entrees.
Details: Elephant Seal Vista Point is open daily in San Simeon; www.parks.ca.gov. Tours at Hearst Castle, 750 Hearst Castle Road, start at $30 ($15 for kids); www.hearstcastle.org.
Rooms at the White Water lodge start in the low $400s. Find the inn at 6736 Moonstone Beach Drive in Cambria; www.whitewatercambria.com.
Robin’s Restaurant is open daily at 4095 Burton Drive in Cambria; www.robinsrestaurant.com. Brydge is open Thursday-Monday at 4286 Bridge St.; www.brydgerestaurant.com.
Ramble through Cayucos
Some 15 miles south, you’ll find Cayucos, “California’s last great beach town,” according to the leather-bound guidebook in your room at The Pacific, a reimagined 20-room motor lodge that opened last fall. Its 1920s-era bungalows have been spiffed up and modernized by local owners Marisa and Ryan Fortini. The lobby is stocked with local wine and coffee and fun blankets, and a little vintage bus parked in a small courtyard has been transformed into a bar.
Just steps from Cayucos Beach and up the hill from the tiny downtown strip, the motel is perfectly situated for enjoying all the things you should be doing here: eating, drinking, beaching and antique shopping. Also cookie nibbling — brown butter ones, to be exact, at the Brown Butter Cooking Co. where decadent little morsels draw folks from near and far.
Don’t miss the Hidden Kitchen restaurant (which has a sister location in Cambria, in case you want to double down). Phenomenal blue corn waffles topped with sweet or savory options are the draw, plus smoothies that are served like milkshakes, heaped and swirling above the tall glass rim. A huge outdoor patio a few steps from the beach and pier are a perfect spot for brunch laziness.
Another great option is the Bijou Bakery, tucked in the historic Cass House. The bakery offers huge morning buns, scones and the best focaccia bread around. You can buy it by the slab to take home for the week ahead, if it lasts that long.
Details: Rooms at the Pacific Motel start at $200. Find the motel at 399 S. Ocean Ave. in Cayucos; www.thepacificmotel.com.
Brown Butter Cookie Company is open daily at 98 N. Ocean Ave.; www.brownbuttercookies.com. The Hidden Kitchen is open Thursday-Tuesday at 113 N. Ocean Ave.; www.hiddenkitchencalifornia.com. And Bijou Bakery is open Thursday-Monday at 149 Cayucos Drive; www.bakerybijou.com.
Head homeward
A lovely, meandering way to loop back to 101 and then homeward is via Old Creek Road, just a small jog on your way out of Cayucos. This circuitous route takes you through country pastures and open land, then drops you back onto beautiful 46. It may not offer the dramatic cliff sides and ocean views of the Big Sur coastline, but it’s a wonderfully scenic plan B nonetheless.
