Kelia Gallina, 11, surfs her home shore break during a break in the 2024 Summer Olympics surfing competition, Wednesday, July 31, 2024, in Teahupo’o, Tahiti. While Teahupo’o has been a coveted destination for surfers from around the world for decades, it’s only in more recent years that local surf culture and talent has begun to develop across Tahiti. (AP Photo/Gregory Bull)
By VICTORIA MILKO Associated Press
TEAHUPO’O, Tahiti (AP) — As the heavy, barrel-shaped waves of Teahupo’o, Tahiti — where the Paris Olympics surfing competition is being held — crashed in the distance, another, smaller surf session was underway just off the shore.
“Go, go, go!” one lanky teenager with sun-bleached hair yelled in French to another, sitting on their surfboards in the ocean. “Allez, allez!”
Seconds later, whoops and whistles of approval from other young surfers in the water and parents sitting on the beach filled the air, as 14-year-old French Polynesian surfer Kiara Goold cruised along a 4-foot-high (1.2-meter-high) wave, smiling.
It’s a sight locals and visitors to Tahiti would not have been able to be see until recently, 38-year-old French Polynesian professional surfer Michel Bourez said.
“Back in the day, there were no kids surfing,” said Bourez, who first hopped on a board as a teenager.
While Teahupo’o has been a coveted destination for surfers from around the world for decades, it’s only in more recent years that local surf culture and talent among younger generations began to develop across Tahiti. With two French Polynesian surfers included in the 2024 Olympics, the surfing community expects local interest in the sport to grow.
Locals said Bourez has been a steward in the development of local surfing talent and culture in recent years. Partly driven by the lack of resources he had when starting out and then finding success in his own career, Bourez said he began training talented young local surfers he spotted across the island’s shores.
“Otherwise, all the knowledge that I gained during all these years will be gone — and for no reason,” Bourez said. “We have to give back to the local community and surfers.”
Goold is one of the young local surfers Bourez has mentored. Growing up in French Polynesia, Goold said she has spent time on the ocean since before she could remember, but only got serious about surfing around age 8.
“I challenge myself by doing things that maybe I don’t want to do,” she said. That means hitting the gym and surfing when the waves are really big. “I just try to train really hard.”
Goold said she feels it’s paid off: she’s traveled internationally to compete and won youth tournaments at home in French Polynesia.
But most days, she can be found with other young surfers along the shores of Tahiti, catching waves and playfully competing against each other.
“We keep pushing each other,” Goold said with a laugh. “We just hang out, and it’s super fun.”
The inclusion of two French Polynesian surfers — Vahiné Fierro and Kauli Vaast — in the Paris Olympics also has been a major boost for the promotion and development of local surfing, Bourez said.
“They’ve become kids’ idols here,” he said.
Fierro and Vaast know they have inspired young local surfers.
“This is the best thing in the world, because I was them a couple years ago,” Vaast said after winning his second round heat. “We try to do our best, to give the best energy, the best personality for them. We try to be the best example possible.”
Vahine, who was the first Tahitian wild card to claim a victory during the World Surf League at Teahupo’o, said the shift in surfing culture for French Polynesian women has been especially noticeable.
“I’ve really seen the change, whether it’s out here at home, or on the beach breaks. There’s almost as many girls as men, and it’s really cool to see,” Fierro said.
While Goold plans to have years of surfing and competition ahead of her, she said she already knows what she will say to the next generation of French Polynesian surfers who might come asking her for advice.
“I’m going to say, ‘Follow you dreams — the only thing you can do for now is work really hard and stay positive. Have fun.’”
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AP Summer Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games
Originally published at Associated Press